Frequently Asked Questions for Spas


Spa Products

Q – My spa water is CLOUDY.

  • If this is occurring in the first month, then this is normal and will clear up in 4 -6 weeks. When first starting on our enzymes, cloudy water indicated that the enzymes are getting established and working.  Please be sure to add 2 tsp. of chlorine every other time you use the hot tub, until the water is clear.
  • If your water is cloudy with a tint of green, then you should check your water for phosphates (see “Phosphates in Water” below) and add 2 tsp. of chlorine after every other use.

Q – My SPA water is GREEN.

  • If your spa water has a tint of green, this is probably algae. Add enough chlorine to clear it up. If it does not clear, or clears and turns green again in a few days, then….
  • Test for PHOSPHATES (a food source for algae). Also test your fill water. They should both be 0 ppb. If your fill water is above 200 ppb, see next step.

Q – I have Phosphates in my spa water.

  • If you have Phosphates in your hot tub and your FILL water, follow one of these steps 1, 2, and, 3 below.
  • If there are NO phosphates in the FILL water, you have the following options -

    1. Add a phosphate remover, or
    2. Purge with Clean & Drain and refill, or
    3. Add enough chlorine to get rid of the green, or
    4. Use your spa, the tinted water is not harmful.

Q – My spa has an ODOR.

  • The smell is most likely CARBON DIOXIDE trapped between the cover and the water– This is present due to the breakdown process where the enzymes are breaking down organics in the spa. This is usually strongest in the 1st month and gets milder with time. It should gas off a few minutes after opening the cover.
  • If it smells like a DIRTY SOCK after the cover has been open a few minutes, sniff the filters. Most of the time, the smell is in the filters. Soaking filters in bleach water should take care of it.

    1. Soak filters for 1 hour in 1 cup of bleach or vinegar per filter and enough water to cover the filter. Rinse thoroughly before putting back in the spa.
    2. Wipe down the pillows and the cover with a bleach solution.
    3. If 1 & 2 do not fix the smell, add a couple scoops of Sanitizer to the water.
  • Another smell could be from the ENZYMES. They can have a yeasty smell. This is normal and should become milder with time.

Q – My spa is FOAMING.

  • This is almost always due to soap or detergent in the water.
  • If you are wearing swim suits, use NO detergent when you wash them, then rinse very well. Simply rinse suits after soaking in your tub and hang them to dry.
  • T-shirts and regular clothing hold even more detergent. Please do not wear t-shirts or boxers in your spa.
  • The best way to get rid of existing foam is to scoop it out over the sides of the tub.
  • If you recently did a purge on your hot tub, it is possible that the lines were not completely flushed out or the blower wasn’t rinsed out.
  • Another cause of foam is pH that is out of balance or Calcium Hardness that is too high.
  • Too prevent high Calcium Hardness, use a pre-filter when filling your spa.

Q – How much CHLORINE should I add & how often?

  • For compliance reasons, we must tell you to follow the recommended label rate.

Q – Can I use BROMINE instead of CHLORINE?

  • Yes, they are interchangeable.

Q – What about Non-Chlorine Shock?

  • You do not need to use any shock with our enzyme system.

Q – What is the difference between the 12 oz. Pure Enzymes for Spas and the 2 oz. Spa Enzyme Concentrate (little blue bottle)?

  • The 12 oz. Pure Enzymes for Spas is a spa enzyme treatment that is applied once a month.
  • The 2 oz. Spa Enzyme Concentrate (little blue bottle) is a concentrated enzyme treatment that is applied at 1 cap full every other week.
  • Both are enzymes. Both are equally as effective as the other.
  • The 12 oz. Pure Enzymes for Spas is our easiest enzyme treatment to use, adding one full bottle once a month.
  • The 2 oz. Spa Enzyme Concentrate is more cost efficient, but can become burdensome when trying to remember which week to add it. If you choose to use the 2 oz. Spa Enzyme Concentrate, we recommend using the Pure Enzymes for Spas for the first month to make starting up your spa easier. However, you do not need to start with the 12 oz. bottle again after draining and refilling your spa.

Q – What about filtration?

  • You should set your filtration for 8 hours/day for the first month when starting on our enzymes or any time the water is cloudy.
  • After the first month on our enzymes, and the water is clear, you can slowly back your filtration hours down to no less than 4 hours/day, as long as your water remains clear. If it does not stay clear, bump the amount of filtration hours up a little more.
  • Check your owner’s manual or the manufacturer's website for directions on adjusting your filtering times.

Q – How often should I clean the filters?

  • You should clean your hot tub filters 1x/week for the first 4-6 weeks with a garden hose and pressure nozzle.
  • After that time, if your water is clear, clean your filters every 2 weeks with a garden hose.  A special filter cleaner is not necessary.
  • If, after cleaning your filters, they do not come back to white or if they have any kind of odor, soak for 1 hour in 1 cup of bleach or vinegar, per filter, and enough water to cover the filter. Then rinse and replace.

Q – How do Enzymes affect pH?

  • Enzymes tend to push the pH up.  So it is best to keep your pH on the low side of normal; around 7.2.

Q – What happens when pH is out of balance?

  • pH that is not balanced is corrosive to your spa equipment and can be irritable to your skin and eyes.
  • Unbalanced pH can cause foaming.
  • pH that is too high, can cause slime to become present in the water.

 

 

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